A practical guide to safely strapping a vehicle for towing
Strapping a vehicle correctly is essential for safe towing. This guide covers a safe strap setup, where to attach straps, how to tension them, and the checks to do before you set off. It is written as a practical reference you can follow while loading.
Written with input from the GT Towing workshop team, an NTTA Trusted Workshop.
Prefer to watch first? This short video shows the core strap setup before you follow the checklist below.
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Quick answer: the safest way to strap a vehicle to a trailer
- Use straps that are rated for the job and in good condition
- Use proper trailer tie down points, not rails or weak attachment points
- Secure the vehicle at four points, typically one at each corner
- Wheel strapping is usually preferred because it avoids suspension movement
- Tighten evenly, secure loose strap tails, and confirm the vehicle cannot move
- Recheck tension after 5 to 10 miles, then at regular stops
At a glance: what makes a secure vehicle load
A quick checklist of what matters most during loading and restraint.
Straps
Rated working load limit straps in good condition
Tie down points
Rated trailer tie down points that cannot bend or pull out
Wheel restraint
Wheel restraint to reduce suspension movement
Restraint direction
Opposing restraint front and rear
Rechecks
Tension rechecked after settling and again during the journey
Equipment: what you should use
Essential
- Rated ratchet straps or wheel straps
- Suitable hooks or fittings for your trailer
- Edge protectors where webbing may rub
- Gloves for handling straps safely
Strongly recommended
- Wheel straps for alloy wheels and modern vehicles
- Strap sleeves to protect paint and trim
- A spare strap in case one is damaged
- Wheel chocks for positioning during loading
Workshop tip
Clear gravel, stones, and debris from the trailer bed and tie down points before strapping. Webbing can be damaged surprisingly quickly if it rubs against sharp edges.
Step by step: how to strap a car or van to a trailer
1) Position the vehicle
- Load front first unless your trailer specifies otherwise and centre the vehicle left to right
- Check nose weight and axle loads. The tow vehicle should sit level and steering feel normal
- Apply the handbrake and select park or first gear
2) Choose secure anchor points
- Use the trailer’s rated tie down points only. Avoid light lashing eyes or side rails
- Prefer over tyre wheel straps that capture the tyre and avoid contact with alloy spokes
3) Strap each wheel
- Run the strap straight and low from the wheel to the nearest anchor point. Avoid twisting the webbing
- Use an over tyre strap or a through wheel route with protection so the wheel is captured even if pressure drops
- Ratchet to firm. Do not over tighten to the point of tyre deformation
4) Create opposing angles
- Front wheels: straps pull slightly forward and outwards
- Rear wheels: straps pull slightly backward and outwards
- This prevents fore and aft movement under braking and acceleration
5) Secure the free ends and recheck
- Tie off loose tails so they cannot flap or reach the road surface
- Shake the vehicle at each corner. If you see movement, tension again
- Stop after the first 5 to 10 miles and re tension. Check again at every fuel stop
Most strap loosening happens early as webbing beds in and the load settles.
Checks before you drive
- All straps seated correctly, no twists, no webbing on sharp edges
- Hooks fully engaged and cannot slip free
- Strap tails tied off so they cannot whip or unwind
- Handbrake on and vehicle in gear or park where appropriate
- Trailer coupling, breakaway cable, and electrics checked before departure
- First stop: recheck strap tension after 5 to 10 miles
Common mistakes to avoid
- Using damaged webbing, frayed straps, or corroded hooks
- Strapping to suspension arms or moving parts that allow loosening
- Letting webbing rub on sharp edges without protection
- Using too few straps or securing only one end properly
- Tightening one corner fully before setting the rest, causing uneven tension
- Skipping the first recheck once the load settles
- Leaving strap tails loose so they wear through or get caught
Weights and stability: how they affect strapping
Even perfect strapping cannot compensate for poor load position or an unsuitable towing setup. This guide focuses on restraint rather than weight calculations.
Understanding towing limits and weightsFrequently asked questions
How many straps do I need?
Four straps is a common minimum, one at each corner. Some trailers or vehicles require additional restraint.
Should I strap wheels or chassis?
Wheel strapping is usually preferred as it avoids suspension movement. If strapping the chassis, use approved points and protect paint and trim.
How tight should straps be?
Tight enough to prevent movement, but not so tight that tyres deform or trim is stressed. Tighten evenly and recheck.
When should I recheck tension?
Recheck after 5 to 10 miles, then again at regular stops. It is normal for straps to loosen slightly as webbing beds in and the vehicle settles.
What if my trailer has limited tie down points?
Do not improvise with weak attachment points. If you are unsure whether your tie down points are suitable for vehicle transport, speak to the GT Towing team before towing.
Helpful resources
Still unsure? We are here to help
If you want a second opinion on your setup, speak to our team. We can recommend suitable straps, confirm safe tie down points, and help you tow with confidence.
This guide is intended as general information. Always ensure your vehicle, trailer, and load are safe and secure before towing.
Important legal notice
This information is provided as a general guide to load security and best practice. While we aim to keep it accurate and up to date, official guidance can change.
Last reviewed: January 2026